Thursday, November 8, 2012

CELEBRATIONS

CELEBRATIONS


SMA (San Miguel de Allende) is a town of celebrations, parades, Indian dancers, religious statues, fireworks, Mariachi’s  and church bells. Just about any weekend in SMA one can find a reason that includes all of these celebratory announcements. 
The celebration usually takes place around the Jardin, or town center.  The park contains wrought iron benches, laurel  trees and on any given night Mariachi’s in traditional form fitting Eisenhower style jackets with silver and gold thread and silver buttons decorating the pants. The band instrumentation may consist of guitars, violins and trumpets as they create the musical ambiance that is indicative of town squares throughout Mexico. This historic center is surrounded by buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries and the Jardin area, as is most of San Miguel has been declared a Enesco World Heritage Site. 
The17th century La Parroquia church fronts the expansive park and parade area and it’s massive sanctuary hosts weekday and Sunday services, special events and weddings. A small crypt under the alter contains the remains of passed bishops, dignitaries and a former president of Mexico. Viewing to the public is available one day year on November 2, on the special holiday of “The Day Of The Dead.”
One evening Lorelei and I had dinner at the newly opened and highly touted, Thai Restaurant just off the Jardin. Coming from the Midwest, we have been raised on a staple of authentic Thai food and saw this as an opportunity to reflect on our past as we indulged in our well-loved cuisine. The service was great, the ambiance romantic, but the food… well,  Let me say that I didn’t see one Asian cook in the restaurant and the Pad Thai had a distinct salsa taste.  


As we are walking through the Jardin, we heard the sound of a brass band led by a drum section playing in a quasi-Mexican/Dixieland style.  As they came out of the Parroquia church we got caught up in the wedding party celebration and found ourselves dancing down the street led by a flower laden burrow, and two, 15 foot dancing puppets called Mojigangas. These huge puppets were dressed in bride and groom costumes followed by the real bride and groom, then family, friends, on lookers and the 12 piece Mexican/Dixieland style brass band.  Everyone’s dancing and the tequila is flowing. What a wedding celebration.
 
Click links below to see photos of other celebrations.

1. Feast of St Michaels and Blessings of the Cowboys and Horses

2. Day of The Dead Oldest cemetary, Crypt, Dancers, Costumes.

The Markets of San Miguel


Going to the Market


San Miguel doesn’t have 7-11’s with its distinctive logo, window signage, gas pumps, organized shelves, coolers, pop machines and candy displays. Instead, in our corner of the world we have home-grown, mom-pop grocery stores called a Tienga. Most Tienga have a few square feet of display space bulging with the basic food groups derived by the needs of the neighborhood families. Others are larger with fresh produce brought in from nearby farms on a regular basis and displayed in bulk in bins and shelves. In our neighborhood it’s not unusual to see  a small table in the doorway of a home with cupcakes, fruit juices, jello’s and  a few other goodies that were made by mom. |
Usually the only signage above the door in a Tienga might be a Pepsi-Cola or a fruit drink sign and a there might  be a light bulb hanging above the door… if any.  The interior is often dimly lit to conserve electricity and food goods are stacked in every possible shelf space. The basic food groups are represented but in smaller quantity than we see in the bigger stores… fruit, vegetables, canned goods, cereals, a limited dairy, a tray of baked goods and white bread, but plenty of pop, fruit drinks, and candy. Gotta have the sugar. The term “convenience store” definitely applies to these stores.
Outdoor markets are very popular and fulfill a shopping and convenience need in the various colonia. The outdoor markets take place along the main street and usually consist of a couple of fresh vegetable and fruit stalls, families selling “mom-made” homemade tamales, tacos, and chicken ,  used clothes and garage sale items from tires to furniture.
The big outdoor market is the Tuesday market or La Placita. It’s a flea market and swap meet of outdoor stalls selling everything imaginable from food, used and new clothing, shoes, carpets, electronics, power and hand tools, pirated DVDs and CDs, homeopathic supplements,  12 kinds of beans, 16 different chilies, song birds in cages, meat, seafood, automotive goods from batteries to used cars to trucks. It’s an overload of sights, smells, sounds, and non-tourista commerce. It’s the market to go to every Tuesday.
The Mercado de ArtesanĂ­as is and enclosed market that extends for several blocks where one finds vendor stalls of fresh food and flowers, sit down cafes, Talavera pottery, handmade jewelry, tapestries, tin lamps, hand woven rugs, clothing, leather goods, Mexican art and paintings...all under one rood. 
What fun it is to go shopping in these markets… they add to the uniqueness and experience of living, or visiting this beautiful Mexican town.
Click Here to see market photos  View the photos in slide show.
 
 
 
 

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Auction and San Miguel First Days


August 28th: The Auction

What a day; what a thrill; what an event!

I've been to a few auctions and love the energy thatsurrounds the day. As buyers and bidders we are looking for that special rare antique or piece of art for which we pay minimal dollars and can take to the Antique Road Show and discover its worth a small fortune. (Although,

Many people come to an auction and just want a great deal on every day items. Others buy things they didn't know they wanted. When we first moved to Eau Claire and I was in my " garden phase of life" I struck gold with my auctioned purchase of a complete bee keeping setup including hives, net helmets, sprayers, smokers and stuff that I had no idea what, or how to use but, for $20, I'm in the beekeeping business. It made my day.
 
Auctioneer, Jerry Andrews and his staff are the consummate professionals when it comes to the auction business. They handled everything from advertising to setting up, and seeing that the area is returned to normal. Well done!!

We had a terrific turnout of friends, students, strangers and the curious. All seemed to be aware that we were moving to Mexico and so many came up to us to us to wish us well. How wonderful to have soooo many friends.

We sold everything! If it wasn't anchored or tied down, it got sold... Furniture, collectibles, electronics, even chicken wire and our two wonderful BMWs.

I guess it's only stuff and I was glad to see it being recycled. What a great party!

 September 3rd: SMA - San Miguel de Allende

It's 7am Monday morning. We've been here for two days. I'm writing while sitting on the rooftop terrace overlooking SMA. The town spreads out below while the hills climb into the clouds to the East. Birds are singing; a few hummingbirds fly by looking for morning succulents. Huge cactus trees adorn the grounds below with leaves topped with flowering bulbs about to give birth. Is this paradise, or what?

Today we are going into town to get additional keys to our casa (home) made and take care of our post office box at a private service. All our mail will be first sent to the office in Laredo, TX and they carry the mail to San Miguel and deliver it to our door. We are told that this is faster and more reliable than the Mexican postal service… So, off we go to town.

Now since we don’t have a car we can choose to walk, take a cab or a city bus which comes within a block of our casa.  Since one of my goals is to be become better fit, we walk. This alone is a great adventure. The first part of the walk is about ½ mile on an uneven cobble stone street circa 1500 A.D., at least. Cars and busses crawl along the road to avoid the wheels falling off.

Once we hit the portion of the street that is paved, or at least the cobble stones have been worn down to a 19th century passible grade, the going is great. Sidewalks, like the streets are made with stone and small. You have to watch where you walk, looking down as well as up to avoid being struck by signs or overhanging whatever.

The walk is eye candy of small, independently owned and family run shops ranging from fast food, (chicken & Mexican menus) Mexican handcrafted colorful art, handmade metal lamps, medical practices, gift shops, a wood shop that makes and restores the beautiful doors that adorn the fronts of SMA homes and business. Check out the book “The Doors of San Miguel” on Google. We found the key shop… Don Pedro’s, a small hardware store where we had keys made.

After getting to the Jardin, the center of town we found the postal box store and took care of business making sure we were signed up and the mail would be delivered.

Next stop… Mextel, the telephone company, for a cellphone. If you want a slice of Mexican life, take the bus. Just like you read… packed, hot, babies crying, standing room only and only Mexican spoken… constantly! The only thing missing was the cage with a live chicken. It was a real treat and wonderful entry into this way of life. Never did get the cellphone… lines too long. Besides, do I real need it?

 I need to digress a moment before I tell you about the evenings, mouth dropping, dinner.

We are living in a Mexican section of town. We wanted to do this to immerse ourselves in this culture and to get a different perspective on this world. Well, this is not E.C. It’s more like a bad day in Beirut in some places. Some streets are unpaved, like ours. Many homes are partially finished.   Families continue building when they have the money for supply’s. But, what is beautiful is that families spend their time outside playing with the kids, young lovers walk hand in hand, some doorways host Mama serving tacos to make a few pesos… It’s a real slice of life that works so well in the community.

 
We found a little family owned pizza restaurant around the corner from where we live. It’s a huge building with a 25’ ceiling that serves wood fired pizza and Mexican food. Sara, our dog was with us and she sat next to the table with us. We were the only customers.

So, the three of us our sitting at a coca cola painted table when all of a sudden a Burro and his master walks in the triple wide door loaded with wood for the wood burning fire pit and stop three feet from our table to unload. This is a first for me. I look at Lorelei and Sara who are sitting with their mouth open in a huge smile. This is right up Lorelei’s passion for animals. She starts petting and brushing the Donkey who just stands in place and I think, laughing to herself. 
 
Sara just takes it all in as though this is the way life is…. And you know, maybe she’s right.

 

 

Sunday, August 26, 2012

THREE INCREDIBLE EVENTS

August 26, 2012
We leave September 1st… in seven days. It was just yesterday when Lorelei and I decided to make the change. I can’t believe how fast time is moving. Will it be this way in San Miguel? I want time to stop. I want to live in the moment, not the past or the future. I want to be able to stop and smell the Roses… or, in this case the cactus. San Miguel has a botanical garden that overlooks the city filled with all types of magnificent cactus and plants.
In March of this year we were in San Miguel and attended a piano concert in the canyon adjacent to the botanical garden. It was also the Spring Equinox and hundreds of SMA (San Miguel de Allende) residents and visitors took part in celebrating the special day. The sound of the piano reverberating off of the walls of the canyon was beautiful. The piano was lowered into the canyon from a helicopter. We hiked up the canyon walls and sat all around the edges looking down several hundred feet to the ledge on which the piano was resting. Quite a wonderful sight!
Lorelei made a trip to SMA in May to confirm to herself that this move is what she wanted to do. Life is a series of synchronistic happenings and as it happened, the larger home within the compound where Lorelei was staying will now be our new home. Fully furnished and lovely with a gardened deck on the roof that overlooks the town and is complete with an art studio. How synchronistic is that!

Lorelei loves animals… especially dogs, cats and now burros. She will be doing volunteer work with a small group called Amigos de Animales whose mission isto help curb the overpopulation of companion animals in San Miguel de Allende and to help eliminate the fear, pain, suffering and misery of homeless animals.” http://amigos-sma.org/  I’m sure we will be foster parents for a few SMA 4-legged friends.

In the mean time we pack, plan and anticipate.





Sunday August 27, 2012
FRIENDS
Three incredible events that brought out the tears in me and Lorelei happened over the last five days. Many of my pottery students gave a party for us that was very touching and quite wonderful with a slide show of students expressing appreciation and memories.

Sunday was a double hitter; Hope Lutheran Church where Lorelei has been working as the pianist and organist for seven years dedicated the Sunday in recognition of her musical work with the church. She is an incredible musician recognized by all that have the pleasure of hearing her and, i must say, she brings tears to my eyes every time I hear her perform. I'm not biased, just grateful to be able to share an artistic space with her.

We also had a full page spread with photos in the Leader Telegram newspaper. Thank you Eau Claire, students, and friends!! How wonderful to have all of you as our family.

Next post…the Auction!!

 

Saturday, August 11, 2012

The Adventure Begins

The decision is made... we are moving to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. Why?  Take a look.









Do you get the sense that San Miguel might be a beautiful, romantic, timeless world in which to live?We think so!